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Thursday, May 8, 2014

The phantom of the westslope

In only the most wild, clean, cold, and complex streams on the the west-slope of the northern Rockies, there is an ancient relic that is big, bad, beautiful, and sacred.
Bull-Trout (Joel Sartore) 460x280
Image Credit: Joel Sartore/National Geographic Stock with Wade Fredenberg
























In most of Montana, it is illegal to intentionally fish for bull trout due to their listing as a Threatened Species by the ESA.  Historically, all of the westslope streams in Montana, where trout could distribute themselves after the last ice age, were cutthroat and bull trout streams.  Rainbows are not native to Montana except for one strain in the Kootenai.  Brook trout are from the east of the continent and are bad news for bulls because they can breed and create sterile offspring (like horse + donkey = sterile mule).  Brown trout aren't even from this continent, they're European.  I won't even get into the lake trout/bull trout thing, it's super contentious and complicated.

The thing is, these absolutely amazing fish, while struggling, are still here and every once in a while, you'll catch one by accident.

If you fish in western Montana long enough, you'll hear of and eventually witness what we call "shark attacks." You'll catch a tiny cutthroat on a dry in mid summer only to watch a shadow appear from the depths and eat it off your line.  One time, up Rock Cr., I had a shark attack happen.  A shadow came out and whacked my tiny brown trout who just ate my stonefly dry.  I instinctively pulled the little trout away from the shadow and it disappeared.  I just kind of stood there stunned and as I pulled in my little wounded trout, the shadow came back without any concern of me standing there and grabbed my trout.  He didn't let go until I scooped him in my Measure Net. He was 20" long.  I've randomly caught other smaller bulls on streamers in the Blackfoot or Rock Creek and even caught an 18" bull on a skwala dry on the lower CF near Superior.

So why all this about bull trout?  It's because yesterday, I caught a 30" monster bull trout in downtown Missoula. It was about the craziest fishing experience I've ever had.  For the first 10 minutes, I thought I foul hooked a huge sucker.  You know how sometimes this happens and you think for a minute that you've caught the largest brown trout of your life until the sucker bellies up to the surface or you feel the tell-tale signs of a foul hook?

Not yesterday.  I was fishing a 6wt and for the sole purpose of conserving my flies while fishing dirty water, I had my upper nymph tied on 1x and my dropper on 2x.  When I first set the hook, it felt as if I hooked into a sinker log in the current.  My rod was just about ripped out my hand as this giant, throbbing, whatever ran into the main current.  After I figured out that whatever it was, it could not be a foul-hooked sucker, my heart started racing.  I could not pull this fish up in the water column or up river at all and I was confidently giving it hell due to my stout line.  My little rod was bent so hard I thought it would burst.  The fish was falling back with the current and taking me with him.  I caught it in slow, safe water and it was pulling me towards a raging, brown river.

It was about this time, that I noticed a small crowd had gathered on a footbridge about 50 yrds. downstream.  I didn't know if I'd be able to safely make it around some submerged trees and get to some slack water on the other side of the bridge.  I called out to the people on the bridge, "can you see it?"  A guy yelled back, "No, don't come this way!"  I got my answer and the only way I was going to ever see this fish and not die was to pull it back upstream.

When trout fishing, you don't normally have the time to think about a lot when you have a fish on.  Even the most epic battles are over pretty quick.  But this was like deep sea fishing.  Thoughts had time to creep into my head.  Is this a giant brown?  Did a pike eat a whitefish off my line?  I visualized all the knots on my hand tied leader.  I wondered if my cheap-ass rod would explode.

Eventually, some of the crowd made their way down to the bank behind me.  As I looked back at them, I saw that behind them, in the restaurant that overlooks the river, the staff and patrons were all standing at the windows watching me.  If you read my post yesterday, you know I don't normally fish around people.  Now, I had a genuine audience.  Oh god!

A minute later, I got my first look at the fish.  I screamed, "It's a fucking giant bull trout, oh my god!"  It took off deep again.  Now I had time for different thoughts.  I knew my net wasn't going to work - too small. I knew I had to do everything right as far as releasing this rare river phantom, especially because of my job, trout conservation reputation, and the audience watching.  I got him in close again.  It had to be getting tired because I kept having to switch arms because of burning muscles.

As I finally pulled the fish close enough to touch, I grabbed her by the caudal peduncle but she just shook me free.  On my next attempt, I thought I'd just go for the fly.  As I reached for it, she spooked and ran off again. On the last attempt, I grabbed the tippet right above the fly, the fish spooked, the fly dislodged, and the river phantom disappeared back to the darkness.

I looked up to the guy that was helping me.  He noted my undersized landing net floating away.  We both just couldn't believe what happened.  He was an old guy and he said he had never seen a fish like that in the Clark Fork.  He thanked me, I thought that was funny.  We laughed when we looked up in the restaurant and all the people were clapping and making the "how big?" gesture with their arms.  I love Missoula.






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Wednesday, May 7, 2014

The people we meet on fishing trips

























I don't go fishing to be social.  Unless I'm fishing with friends,  I go as far out of the way as possible to avoid running into other people on the water.  It's great because even in 2014, with a little knowledge, you can still ditch the crowds in Montana fairly easily.

However, going to the Missouri during runoff is a social event no matter what. You can have the Mo almost to yourself during other times of the year but during runoff, it's like Disneyland in January, Lake Havasu during spring break, or the bars in Missoula on a Saturday night.  It is a total circus but unlike the crowds you might run into at my given examples, for the most part, the folks you meet fishing the Missouri during runoff are some of the nicest, helpful, and accepting people you will meet.

Case in point 1:
I was hopping from access site to access site.  I was wade/shore fishing due to the wind and was having a great time catching mostly browns on nymphs and streamers.  When the hits would stop, I'd move on.  This went on until after one run, when I climbed back in the truck and turned the key; dead.  Shit.  I left the lights on.  I was at a tiny private access and no one was driving by.  I have AAA and was considering how long I would have to wait and bumming because I'd wouldn't be able to give a tip to the driver and still have enough gas money to get home.  I figured I might as well open the hood and get the jumper cables out, just in case someone stopped - at least I'd be ready.

No sooner than I had gotten the cables and walked to the road side of the car, the first truck that drove by did a U-turn and came back to where I was parked.  Two guys got out of the big truck in full camo, gave me a big stiff handshake and we hooked up the cables like a NASCAR pit crew.  We talked about the fishing while my battery charged.  They were spin fishers and had brought the whole family.  They said the fishing had been slow so they "left the wives and took the kids into Craig to show them all the fly shops."  They ran into me on their way back to camp.  Minutes later, my truck was running and I was back on my way.

Later that day, I was fishing on the north side below the dam.  I noticed the two guys' camo jackets and saw them across the river on the rocks fishing with the kids.  They were all excited because the wife had caught a dink.  Then, one of the guys sets into a big rainbow and they all lost it.  The kids were all freaking and so excited.  I was so happy for them.  After some time, I fished my way out of sight as I moved up towards the dam.  About 20 minutes later, they all freaked out again, this time like they had won the Super Bowl.  I could hear it all over the roar of the dam.

Case in point 2: 
I use a bike to shuttle my truck and trailer whenever I can.  I love the pre-float bike rides through the country and all the money it saves.  I have what I call "bike shuttle" floats for all my favorite streams which maximize river mile and minimize bike mile.  The Missouri is perfect for bike shuttles because there are so many accesses.

I had dumped my boat in Craig and driven my trailer down to Spite Hill.  I packed all my stuff that's worth any money into my backpack and strapped my rods to it.  I wear my waders as well as a helmet.  I probably look like a futuristic flyfishing warrior on a bike.  Whatever I look like, I sure get some stares when I ride around Missoula like this.  Anyway, I was just about to hop on the bike when 3 college kids dropped off their shuttle car and gave me the WTF stare.  I laughed in my head, assuming they were at least gently ribbing me inside their truck.  Then, they rolled down the window and said, "Want a ride?"

I left the bike and climbed in.  These guys were mostly from Bozeman but were attending or planning to attend the University of Montana in Missoula.  One guy was a Grizzly Football player and the other was going to be. I don't remember if the 3rd guy was too.  Anyway, they were the nicest guys and although I didn't realize it at first, they actually did more than just give me a ride.  The wind is the great equalizer on the Mo.  When it blows, it's game over.  That day it got really windy.  I had an hour or two of awesome fishing beforehand that I wouldn't have had if those guys didn't give me a ride.

       

  

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Road stop - Lincoln

The freestones are all blown here in western Montana.  This scenario brings on one of Montana's largest human migration as every flyfisher, guide, and dude head over to the flyfishing insurance plan know as the Missouri River. The trip over from Missoula is one of my favorite drives to make.  There are two ways to go and I love them both.  The shortest way is to take the ancient "road to the buffalo" or Hwy. 200 up through the Blackfoot Valley, through Potomac, Ovando, and Lincoln and then, over Rogers Pass.  On the other side you take a right down one of the most beautiful stretches of highway you'll ever drive called "Tom and Pat Matsko Bluebird Trail Highway" down to Wolf Creek. There are many place to stop but if your in a hurry to get on the water or get home after a long trip, the Shake 'N' Burger in Lincoln is the perfect pit-stop.

Shake 'N' Burger in Lincoln, MT
























You have to supply your own beer but there is a movie rental shop in the back and lots of good boat parking.

Here's some views from the Tom and Pat Matsko Bluebird Trail Highway.





Monday, May 5, 2014

5 sure bet flies for the Missouri River for the next week or so

Heavily used Firebead Soft Hackle Ray Charles
























The Ray Charles is the perfect top fly for the double nymph rig.   It was extremely effective yesterday in the wind and sun.  Your nymph rig will need to be deep and have split on it.  6-8 feet from bobber to splitshot.  I used 1 or 2 BBs for weight.  Fish the slow inside curves and pocket water at the tail-outs of the swirlies. The big swirly just downstream from Craig is fishing great, just be careful in those hydraulics; it would not be the best place to fall out of the boat or drop an anchor.



Rainbow Czech Nymph
























The Rainbow Czech was the perfect bottom fly in tandem with the Ray Charles when the baetis stuff wasn't working so much



Beerhead nymph/emerger
























Although there were no massive baetis hatches over the past couple of days, the trout were onto the nymphs during certain times of the day.  Sometimes they would eat the baetis nymph, almost exclusively, over the others.  In the current conditions on the Missouri R., you'll want to have this as your bottom fly in a double nymph rig.  Sometimes I'll have a size 18 as a lead and a size 20 as a dropper.  The Beerhead is super versatile though and its specialty is as an emerger on a short leash or in the film with a greased leader.  It is one of my favorite flies of all time.  I'm a BWO guy through and through.




Firebead Soft Hackle Sow Bug
























This egg pattern also worked as bottom fly.




Black Conehead Bugger

























The Mo is one of my favorite places to fish with streamers.  I love slow swinging a bugger through the runs and feeling it get whacked a couple times as it glides through the zone and finally gets grabbed by a mean old brown.  You can get as technical with streamers as you want but a green, black, or white weighted bugger will fish as good, if not better, than anything else.


I have got a couple good stories and pictures of my Missouri trip to come soon.

Friday, May 2, 2014

Nymphing still key for all day sucsess on the Mo


























The Missouri River is fishing great but it's a bit more work than normal.  There are some fish up on dries in the evening but it is not really worth the time.  Streamers were also weak the past couple of days due to the bright-ass sun.  The fish are really hot on small mayfly nymphs though.  Fish them deep in the sun, even in the afternoon.  I did better climbing around on the rip rap in the canyon today than floating through it.  I was fishing winter-like water and fishing it deep.  I caught some great fish and my biggest brown of the year so far.  Tomorrow looks like it may be the day for streamers!

Thursday, May 1, 2014

The stars have aligned


























I've got a short window of opportunity to get over to the Missouri River and I'm going to take advantage of it.  The next couple of days are supposed to be rainy and cloudy and I could not be more excited.  Stay tuned for a report and pics from the mighty Mo.